Rating Auckland's new eggs-only café

Author
Tess Nichol,
Section
On Trend,
Publish Date
Friday, 1 June 2018, 5:58PM

Set up & site: Tucked down the back of St Kevins Arcade, Egg and Spoon is very yellow and very small. The walls are as bright as the centre of a sunflower and the counter extends practically to the door, so the only place you can perch inside is on a small stool either side of the door in an area which would probably house a window display if this was a retail store.

Being a part of St Kevins Arcade, however, means customers have access to the communal tall tables outside, a much more spacious set-up and one that is perfect for people-watching.

Egg and Spoon: St Kevin's Arcade, 83 Karangahape Rd, Auckland. Photo / Getty Images

Sustenance & swill: "If you're going to call yourself Egg and Spoon, you should probably have more spoons on the menu," my flatmate Liv says. It'd be more apt to call the place Egg and Bun, as six of the seven main items on the menu come served inside bread of some variety, mainly brioche. I opt for the single spoon-based option, shakshuka served in a jar with a coddled egg on top and dipping soldiers ($14), which is billed as Egg and Spoon's "namesake dish". Shakshuka, when you get it right, is a thick, rich and smokey sauce; tomato and capsicum working in harmony to delight your taste buds. Sadly, Egg and Spoon's version is more like a watery tomato sauce, which I barely believe had even a passing acquaintance with a single sliver of red pepper, despite the fact I did see a few chunks in the jar. Liv had the sweet scramble ($11), a pile of scrambled eggs, caramelised onion, spinach, cheese and spicy mayo in a brioche bun. It was nice, but essentially you're paying for the convenience of having someone else make it rather than enjoying a meal you couldn't recreate at home. My other flatmate Julia's brekkie bagel with halloumi ($12) was a much bigger hit, a cheese-covered circle with spicy tomato kasundi, aioli and a fried egg to top it off. The most flavoursome and unique of the three, it was declared the favourite. We also ordered a large side of tater tots ($5), of which you could probably buy a whole bag for the same price and cook them at home but, whatever, they were still delicious.

Service & other stuff: The staff are pleasant and our coffees ($4.50 each) are well made, but I feel let down by Egg and Spoon. A flurry of PR heralded its opening, billing the place as a "single-product eatery" following in the footsteps of success stories in New York and California's "hippest suburbs". If you're only going to do one thing, you need to do it a bit better than this.